Is it the bitter, battling winter following the Arab spring that has created a march of the military in men's fashion?
A soldierly influence was an undercurrent in the winter 2012 Milan season that closed Tuesday. The idea of smartening up and shaping up may be a response to Europe's gloomy economic situation.
But the drum beat of military styles is definitely present, with the rising designer Umit Benan devoting an entire collection to the dismantling of a boot camp and its army gear. With rear vision, the black leather storm trooper coats sent out by Raf Simons for Jil Sander earlier in the season now seem more comprehensible.
There was a moment Tuesday when a Giorgio Armani army walked the runway in velvet jackets topped off with berets and the pleated fatigue pants that dominated the show.
"I don't want it to be thought of as military," Giorgio Armani said backstage about his models' headgear. Instead, he said, the show was about softening the silhouette with the pants and with fabrics whose essence could be understood only by touch.
A double-breasted coat turned out to be knitted, while a tailored jacket was, in fact, in malleable jersey. Zippers were inserted in shirts and vests to create a sleek surface in tweedy materials. And what seemed like patterned ski sweaters were screen-printed.
The collection, with its mostly gray colors, was inspired by the Dolomites mountain range of northern Italy.
The clean, precise and systematic Armani style is so pervasive that it is evident in the new rooftop hotel the designer has opened, with an aerial view of Milan, on the floors above his Emporio store.
That absolute integrity of design — simplicity enriched with architectural precision and surface treatments — is what the designer stands for. And what his show defined. Nothing would have seemed really "new," as in a jarring note, to the impressive front row of actors and cinéastes. But there were enough ideas, especially the printed-on knit patterns, to refresh the Armani style.
Donatella Versace is on a roll — and her dynamic, colorful Versace men's wear show proved her new confidence in the brand's heritage.
"It is all thanks to H&M. I realize that what young people want is real Versace," the designer said backstage while greeting Milan's leading soccer players who were seated front row. She was referring to a collaboration with the fast fashion chain and her reworking of some iconic pieces.
In this upbeat show, each Versace characteristic seemed to be pushed to its extreme. There was denim with loads of silvered chains threaded across the fabric; eye-popping color, first in sunshine yellow and grass-green shades for fur collars, then blood orange appearing for a tailored coat.
Versace prints? There were joyous psychedelic patterns on military overalls, with that over-the top decoration calmed by rich,wholesale canada goose outlet but plain, velvet.canada goose parka
Sexual drive? A semi-transparent black lace shirt came out as the show tipped toward night and the vast Medusa Versace logo gleamed from the backdrop.
It was a show that returned the vibrancy to Versace that the brand needs to look ahead.
For the Turkish-born Umit Benan , war was not an undercurrent but the soul of his show.
Imagine a last day in camp after a battle truce, as the designer announced the theme to the audience. The "models," men picked off the street, went about their personal duties: One took a shower before getting dressed; another was given an arm tattoo on stage; a guy in camouflage pants did pushups; another had the same fabric — in fact, an abstract chevron — for his uniform and took charge behind a desk.
The clothes,authentic canada goose jackets as they walked the runway, were strong, martial but wearable, not just on a military parade. The silhouettes ranged from bulky to slender, while the belted jacket, a current trend, was executed with perfect proportions. A felted jacket, molded to the body, proved the designer's cutting skills.
A soldierly influence was an undercurrent in the winter 2012 Milan season that closed Tuesday. The idea of smartening up and shaping up may be a response to Europe's gloomy economic situation.
But the drum beat of military styles is definitely present, with the rising designer Umit Benan devoting an entire collection to the dismantling of a boot camp and its army gear. With rear vision, the black leather storm trooper coats sent out by Raf Simons for Jil Sander earlier in the season now seem more comprehensible.
There was a moment Tuesday when a Giorgio Armani army walked the runway in velvet jackets topped off with berets and the pleated fatigue pants that dominated the show.
"I don't want it to be thought of as military," Giorgio Armani said backstage about his models' headgear. Instead, he said, the show was about softening the silhouette with the pants and with fabrics whose essence could be understood only by touch.
A double-breasted coat turned out to be knitted, while a tailored jacket was, in fact, in malleable jersey. Zippers were inserted in shirts and vests to create a sleek surface in tweedy materials. And what seemed like patterned ski sweaters were screen-printed.
The collection, with its mostly gray colors, was inspired by the Dolomites mountain range of northern Italy.
The clean, precise and systematic Armani style is so pervasive that it is evident in the new rooftop hotel the designer has opened, with an aerial view of Milan, on the floors above his Emporio store.
That absolute integrity of design — simplicity enriched with architectural precision and surface treatments — is what the designer stands for. And what his show defined. Nothing would have seemed really "new," as in a jarring note, to the impressive front row of actors and cinéastes. But there were enough ideas, especially the printed-on knit patterns, to refresh the Armani style.
Donatella Versace is on a roll — and her dynamic, colorful Versace men's wear show proved her new confidence in the brand's heritage.
"It is all thanks to H&M. I realize that what young people want is real Versace," the designer said backstage while greeting Milan's leading soccer players who were seated front row. She was referring to a collaboration with the fast fashion chain and her reworking of some iconic pieces.
In this upbeat show, each Versace characteristic seemed to be pushed to its extreme. There was denim with loads of silvered chains threaded across the fabric; eye-popping color, first in sunshine yellow and grass-green shades for fur collars, then blood orange appearing for a tailored coat.
Versace prints? There were joyous psychedelic patterns on military overalls, with that over-the top decoration calmed by rich,wholesale canada goose outlet but plain, velvet.canada goose parka
Sexual drive? A semi-transparent black lace shirt came out as the show tipped toward night and the vast Medusa Versace logo gleamed from the backdrop.
It was a show that returned the vibrancy to Versace that the brand needs to look ahead.
For the Turkish-born Umit Benan , war was not an undercurrent but the soul of his show.
Imagine a last day in camp after a battle truce, as the designer announced the theme to the audience. The "models," men picked off the street, went about their personal duties: One took a shower before getting dressed; another was given an arm tattoo on stage; a guy in camouflage pants did pushups; another had the same fabric — in fact, an abstract chevron — for his uniform and took charge behind a desk.
The clothes,authentic canada goose jackets as they walked the runway, were strong, martial but wearable, not just on a military parade. The silhouettes ranged from bulky to slender, while the belted jacket, a current trend, was executed with perfect proportions. A felted jacket, molded to the body, proved the designer's cutting skills.
